View posts for » March, 2008

I’ve been seeing the telltale signs that winter is finally at an end…my fellow train commuters are swapping their heavy coats for raincoats, there are more hours of sunlight during the day, and the price of artichokes is (finally!) dropping at the grocer. Spring is definitely in the air!

My boyfriend Robert, who grew up in an Italian-American family, often reminisces about his late mother’s baked stuffed artichokes. Living in Rhode Island, we are fortunate to have access to good Italian markets, where we can find terrific pre-made artichokes at the deli counters. However, there is simply no comparison to a home cooked version made with love.

Since the artichokes at our local market have been so gorgeous (and finally affordable) recently, I had to pick up a few to experiment with. I decided to create my own recipe in tribute to this very Italian dish, but gave it an Asian twist—adding shiitake mushrooms and replacing the usual Italian bread crumbs with lighter Japanese panko.

Baked Stuffed Artichokes with Panko, Black Olives and Shiitake Mushrooms

Makes enough stuffing for 4 small artichokes or or 2 large artichokes (Artichokes can be comically huge these days.)

Ingredients:

• 4 small or 2 large artichokes
• 2 tablespoons fresh squeezed lemon juice
• 1 tablespoon sea salt
• 1/3 cup olive oil
• 1 cup Japanese panko flakes
• 1-2 cloves garlic (minced)
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 8-10 black olives (diced)
• 2-3 tablespoons re-hydrated shiitake mushrooms (chopped)
• Additional olive oil for brushing the artichokes/baking dish
• Lemon wedges for serving

Directions:

First, prepare the artichokes for stuffing: Slice about an inch off the top of each artichoke and snip the sharp tips of each leaf with scissors. Pull out the woody inner leaves from the center until the fuzzy “choke” covering the heart is revealed. Remove the fuzz with a small sharp knife or spoon. (I use a strawberry/tomato huller gadget that works really well.) Remove the stems of the artichokes, cutting them flush against the base so the artichokes are able to sit upright in a baking dish. Peel the stems with a vegetable peeler, removing the tough outer layer. (Note: Artichokes will brown quickly once they are cut—to prevent this, put out a large bowl of water with some lemon juice squeezed into it and keep the cut artichokes in the bowl until you have finished prepping all of them.)

Bring a large pot of water to a boil and add the artichokes and peeled stems along with the salt and two tablespoons of lemon juice. Boil for about 30 minutes, or until the leaves are tender. While the artichokes are cooking, re-hydrate the shiitake mushrooms in a cup of warm water.

Preheat oven to 400°F. Remove the artichokes and stems from the water and place upside down on a paper towel lined plate to drain. Chop the cooked artichoke stems and shiitake mushrooms into small pieces (reserving a few mushroom slices for garnish). Combine the olive oil, panko flakes, minced garlic, ground pepper, diced olives, chopped mushrooms, and chopped stems in a mixing bowl. Place artichokes upright in lightly oiled baking dish. Spoon mixture into each hollowed out artichoke and brush all over with olive oil. Bake for 20 minutes. Remove from oven, garnish with reserved mushroom, and serve with lemon wedges.

(Note: To make an Italian artichoke that is more like what Robert’s mother used to make…add a little extra oil to the stuffing, skip the shiitake mushrooms, and use seasoned Italian bread crumbs instead of the panko. And of course, don’t forget the love.)

Happy Spring!

In Italian cuisine, the use of spinach and ricotta together is quite common, and this is a combination that I personally love. Unlike French cuisine, vegetables aren’t usually transformed into completely homogeneous creams in Italy, so a typical Italian dish with spinach and Ricotta will have the ricotta with tiny pieces of spinach.

I must confess that I do like some French-like creamy fillings, and when I found out I had spinach and ricotta on my refrigerator last week, I had to make this very versatile pâté.

Besides the rich flavor of this mix, an interesting thing is that ricotta cheese is relatively low in calories and fat, so it is a great creamy substitute for other cheeses and even mayonnaise, cream and other high fat ingredients.

Ingredients

• 1/2 Onion
• 300g (10 oz) of fresh spinach
• 4 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil
• 2 cloves of garlic
• 300g (10 oz) ricotta

Directions

• Wash the spinach leaves and dry well;
• Finely chop the onion and smash the garlic;
• Put the olive oil in a pan on low heat and add the onion and garlic;
• Cook until the garlic and onion are slightly golden, stirring occasionally;
• Add the spinach leaves, stir well, cover with a lid and cook in low heat until the leaves are tender, stirring occasionally;
• Remove from heat and wait until the spinach mix reaches room temperature, then pass it through a food processor until thoroughly mixed
• Still in the food processor, add the ricotta and mix until creamy

Serving suggestions

• Use it in pasta like you would use pesto. After the pasta is cooked mix it and serve;
• Use as a filling for crepes or pancakes;
• Use it as a topping for Bruschetta or simply spread it over toasts;
• Serve it as a pâté with appetizers;
• Use as mayonnaise substitute.

I eat a lot of whole grains. For breakfast, I regularly have whole grain cereal such as oatmeal, muesli or bran flakes; or toasted whole grain bread with toppings (such as natural peanut butter, sliced cheese and tomato, or baked beans). A typical weekday lunch is a sandwich, stuffed pita, or wrap made with whole grain breads. When we make pizza at home, we’ll often use a large whole wheat pita as the crust. I also love bulgur (made from whole wheat) topped with stew, or in tabbouleh salad. And if I feel like a snack, I’ll often have some air-popped popcorn (popcorn is a whole grain) or a whole grain cracker.

But I’m certainly not a fan of all whole grain foods. I’ve tried brown rice several times, in several different ways, and each time I was thoroughly disappointed — not only with the flavor, but also with the texture. In comparison, white rice is light in texture and subtle in flavor. It embraces the flavors of the foods it’s paired with, whereas I find that brown rice does just the opposite and tends to overpower the taste of other food.

So I basically gave up on brown rice a long time ago. And I’m not the only one. White rice has been far more popular than brown rice throughout Asia and the Mediterranean for many generations. And no wonder — I couldn’t imagine sitting down to plateful of brown rice sushi, or eating brown rice paella or risotto either!

But what about all those naysayers who tell you that white rice is fattening and unhealthy? What a load of nonsense. The leanest, healthiest and longest-living peoples in the world eat white rice regularly. This makes it obvious that white rice is far from a dietary villain.

Indeed, research has found that for the last 30 years rice consumption in Japan has dropped by over 50 percent. (This is because many Japanese, particularly the younger generation, are embracing a Western-style diet.) Over the same period, guess what’s happened? Obesity rates have climbed steadily.

Now I’m not saying that the answer to a leaner healthier body is to rush out and grab a large sackful of white rice. But what I’m saying is that white rice, in all its wonderful varieties (including Italian arborio, Indian basmati, Thai jasmine, Spanish calasparra, Japanese koshihikari), can fit perfectly into a varied and balanced diet.

The key is to eat rice like people from Mediterranean and Asian cultures do: in moderate portions (yes, calories do count), and mixed with slowly-digesting foods like fish, beans, poultry, plant oils, and vegetables. This not only makes the rice taste a whole lot better, it also means that it’s digested at a slow and steady rate — so you won’t get blood sugar swings and rebound hunger.

The following risotto recipe — which contains a mix of arborio rice, chickpeas, vegetables and extra virgin olive oil — is a good example of what I mean.

Roasted Garlic, Pumpkin & Red Pepper Risotto with Spinach & Chickpeas

Serves 2 to 3

• 2 cups peeled and cubed pumpkin or winter squash (cut into 1/2-inch cubes)
• 1 red pepper — deseeded and cut into quarters
• 6 cloves garlic — left unpeeled
• 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
• 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
• 1/2 teaspoon dried rosemary
• 1 onion — finely chopped
• 1 cup arborio rice
• 2 cups vegetable or chicken stock
• 1/2 cup white wine
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 10 kalamata olives — pitted and quartered
• 2 packed cups roughly chopped fresh spinach
• 1 cup canned chickpeas — rinsed well and drained
• 1/3 cup finely grated parmesan cheese
• 1 tablespoon lemon juice

PREHEAT an oven to 450F/230C. PLACE the pumpkin, red pepper and garlic cloves in a baking dish and toss with 1 tablespoon of the oil, the balsamic vinegar and rosemary until well coated. BAKE for 20 minutes. WHILE the vegetables cook, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large saucepan and cook the onion for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. ADD the rice, stir to coat the grains in oil and cook for 1 minute. ADD the wine, stock, salt, black pepper, olives and spinach, stir to combine and bring to a boil. COVER with a lid, reduce the heat to low and cook for 20 minutes without lifting the lid. REMOVE the red pepper and garlic from the baking dish. ADD the chickpeas to the baking dish with the pumpkin and return to the oven for 5 minutes. ROUGHLY chop the peppers. SQUEEZE the garlic pulp from the skins and stir into the risotto with the parmesan, lemon juice and remaining tablespoon of oil. STIR in the red pepper, pumpkin and chickpeas to combine.

There’s something very satisfying about being able to whip up a restaurant-quality Thai curry at home. The key is getting the right balance of saltiness, sweetness, sourness, and heat. To achieve this balance we typically use a combination of ingredients including sugar (palm sugar is traditional, but we usually use brown sugar for convenience), lemon or lime juice, fish sauce, and Thai curry paste (which is made from fresh chili and various spices) .

You can make your own curry paste from scratch, but years ago my sister-in-law Vivian, who’s Chinese-Malaysian, introduced me to a range of authentic pre-made curry pastes that I’ve used in my cooking ever since. In fact it was her chicken curry — which was made using red curry paste — that got me hooked on Asian food in the first place.

So if you’ve got the time and inclination to make your own curry paste, go for it. But the results you’ll get from a good quality pre-made curry paste can be almost as good — with a lot less effort. But here’s a tip; when you’re buying pre-made Thai curry paste, check to make sure it’s made in Thailand. If it is, there’s a very good chance it will be made with authentic ingredients. Our absolute favorite brand is Mae Ploy.

For this curry, we used green curry paste (which is green simply because the main ingredient is green chili), and three of our favorite green vegetables: peas, zucchini and green beans. Fresh garlic, onion and cilantro add extra depth of flavor, and the succulent shrimp not only complement the taste of this curry, they also add a wonderful color contrast.

Thai Green Curry with Shrimp & Vegetables

Serves 2

2 tablespoons peanut or canola oil
1 onion – finely chopped
3 teaspoons Thai green curry paste
2 cloves garlic – finely chopped
1 cup coconut milk
1 cup chicken stock
2 tablespoons fish sauce
1 tablespoon brown sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 zucchini – sliced into ½ inch rounds
16 green beans – halved
1 cup jasmine rice
1/3 cup frozen green peas – thawed
20 uncooked shrimp – peeled and deveined
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh cilantro (fresh coriander), and extra for garnish

HEAT the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat and cook the onion, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes. ADD the curry paste and garlic and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. ADD the coconut milk, chicken stock, fish sauce, sugar, and salt, and bring to a boil. ADD the zucchini and green beans, reduce the heat to medium, and simmer uncovered for 12 minutes. WHILE the curry simmers, bring 1 ½ cups of water to a boil in a saucepan. STIR in the rice, and keep stirring until the water returns to a boil. COVER the pot with a tight-fitting lid, reduce the heat to very low, and simmer gently for 15 minutes. ADD the peas and shrimp to the curry and simmer, uncovered, for another 4 minutes, then stir in the lemon juice and cilantro. GARNISH with the reserved cilantro and serve with the jasmine rice.

Like many people who work, I have a long and hectic day most weekdays. By the time I get home in the evenings, I often have just a little time (and energy) to throw something together for dinner.

For those evenings when time is precious, it’s nice to have something ready in the fridge as a time saver, such as cooked chicken. I especially enjoy a simple, Chinese style poached chicken for its tender texture, fresh taste and versatility.  

Here are just a few ways to use poached chicken…the possibilities are numerous:

• Chilled, sliced and served with romaine leaves to make easy lettuce wraps
• Thrown into a salad
• Folded in rice paper with cellophane noodles and greens for a quick fresh spring roll
• Shredded and stirred into rice porridge/congee
• Enjoyed as is, with a little dipping sauce (see recipe below)
• Sandwich roll-up (try it in a whole wheat wrap with shredded carrots, cilantro, and a bit of peanut butter for a Southeast Asian flavor).

This Chinese style poached chicken recipe is easy to make ahead of time, with a minimum of ingredients and fuss. (Fittingly enough, it is based on a recipe used by my brother Dave…who just happens to write about productivity tools and tips.)

Chinese Style Poached Chicken:

Ingredients:

• 2 whole chicken breasts, skin on and bone in
• A few scallion stalks, chopped into medium sized pieces 
• 3-5 slices of ginger root
• 1/2 cup dry sherry

Equipment:

• A large pot with a tight fitting lid

Directions:

Fill the large pot with water and put over heat to boil. While the water is waiting to boil, wash the chicken breasts, chop up the scallions and ginger and set aside. When the water reaches the boiling point, carefully lower the chicken breasts into the pot. Wait 30 seconds, then TURN OFF THE HEAT. Add the scallions, sliced ginger, and sherry, cover the pot and let sit undisturbed for 35 minutes (no peeking!). Remove the chicken, which should now be cooked through and tender. Allow to cool. Remove the skin and carefully carve or pull the meat from the bones. Use immediately, or store in your fridge to keep handy for the next couple of days.

(Note: You can also use boneless, skinless chicken breast—just reduce the poaching time to about 25 minutes.)

Sauce Suggestion: (Increase recipe as needed, though a little goes a long way)

• 1 tablespoon sesame oil
• 1 scallion stalk, finely chopped
• 1 teaspoon ginger, minced
• 1 tablespoon soy sauce
• Sea salt or kosher salt to taste

Briefly sauté the chopped scallion in the sesame oil, then remove from heat and mix in soy sauce, ginger and a sprinkling of salt to taste. Use as dipping sauce or drizzle on top of sliced chicken. (My favorite use: Arrange a few chicken pieces on a romaine leaf with a bit of the sauce to make a lettuce “boat”…delicious!)

Have fun coming up with other ways to use this in your own recipes. Enjoy! 

If you ask me what is the single thing I like to cook the most, I’ll answer in a blink of an eye: Bread!

It might be because I’m a full time home based web designer and software developer and just like bread, my work needs its pauses which are perfect to bake bread along the day, but it could as well be because bread has essentially only 4 ingredients and has the ability to enrich itself with almost anything under the sun you can put on it.

Bread exists in practically all cultures around the world, is staple food in many, and has some very interesting nutritive properties. Whole wheat bread is even healthier and, when properly done, absolutely delicious.

Contrary to popular belief, bread is easy to make and is not time consuming if you can alternate it with other tasks. An excellent bread might take hours to make well, but most of the time, you don’t need to do anything, you can just turn your back to your activities and come back to it when it is done. The truth is that all added up, making a fine bread can take less than 30 minutes of your time.

The secrets of bread

• Bread is made of four basic ingredients: Flour, Water, Salt and Yeast. There is no need to put in anything else, but it is possible if you want;
• Bread grows better with cold water than warm water because it grows slowly and this help to increase the strength of its texture;
• You need a pinch of salt even for sweet bread because the salt helps create elasticity for the dough;
• You need about 600ml of water for every 1Kg of flour. Although you might be tempted to put extra flour because it is easier to work, a very moist bread dough makes better bread.
• You don’t need sugar at all in any bread, unless you want to make it sweet. The yeast can get all the sugar it needs breaking the flour into it.

Home made Whole Wheat and Bulgur bread

This recipe will take about 4 to 5 hours to be completed, but you don’t need to work more than about 30 minutes on it, the rest of the time the dough will be resting or cooking. You must prepare the bulgur the day before and we are going to use extra water for the bulgur.

Ingredients

• 1kg (35 oz) of whole wheat flour
• 1 cup of Bulgur
• 25g (1 oz) of salt (aprox a teaspoon)
• 900ml (30 floz) of water
• 25g (1 oz) of fresh yeast or equivalent measure of dry yeast

Directions

• Boil 600ml (20 floz) of water with the salt, turn off the heat, add the bulgur and leave overnight with a cover;
• The following day put 150g (5.2 oz) of flour with 100ml (3.3 fl oz) of water and the yeast in small pieces;
• Mix well but gently until it starts to become sticky and less liquid, you can use a wooden spoon or your hands here;
• Cover with a wet cloth and let it grow for about 30 minutes, until doubles in size and becomes fluffy;
• Use the wooden spoon or your hands to mix it again
• In a big bowl (or in the table, if you want to be traditional) put the rest of the flour as a mountain and make a hole in the center;
• Add the rest of the water to it (300ml or 10 floz) and the mix of yeast;
• Work it gently but firmly for about 5 minutes by stretching the dough and folding it again, add the soaked Bulgur in the process;
• Put in a bowl and cover with a wet cloth, let rest for about an hour, it should more than double in size;
• Work the dough again, make the loaf, put on a bread tray (or any tray that you like);
• Make deep cuts to the surface to allow it to expand as it grows and let rest for another hour;
• Bake in pre-heated oven at 170 oC (340 oF) for 40~50 minutes.

A word of caution

Although very moist, by working the dough, it should become extremely elastic and reduce its stickiness to the hands and everything else. In fact, you shouldn’t even need to grease the tray because of it, but if you are new to bread baking, you might want to lightly grease the tray before putting the bread on it. Until you feel you’ve learned to make a dough that is very elastic.

Making bread is easy, the thing with bread that scares people is that great bread requires a bit of instinct and you need some practice to become a master baker, but getting some bread done is fairly easy. The sooner you start, the sooner you will become a master baker.

Have a lot of fun and bon apetit!