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Robust Red Sauce

I like to spend a couple of hours on the weekend preparing a few food basics that, once made, take the hard work out of cooking meals for the week ahead — a strategy I refer to as ‘weekend cooking for weekday eating’. In addition to curries and soups I invariably make some kind of tomato-based Mediterranean sauce for its sheer versatility.

Apart from a classic bolognese sauce or a piquant puttanesca sauce, one of our favorites is this rich sauce made with a medley of vibrant red ingredients including tomatoes, roasted red peppers, red onions, red wine, and red chili. I really enjoy the process of making up batches of this sauce, it brings out the Italian mama in me, especially when I put on Italian opera while I’m cooking.

Producing my own homemade sauce rather than buying the store-bought stuff in jars gives me a feeling of self-sufficiency, and it’s healthier and cheaper as well. Just knowing that I’ve got a supply of this delicious and nutritious sauce on hand fills me with a real sense of satisfaction. Over the past week we’ve had this sauce drizzled over grilled fish on a simple couscous salad, and then a couple of nights later tossed with rigatoni, broccoli and canned tuna as a quick pasta meal.

The sauce can be stored in the fridge, covered for up to 3 days, or in the freezer for up to 3 months.

Robust red sauce

Serves 4 (or enough to make the following 2 meals, each serving 2 people)

  • 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  • 2 red onions — diced
  • 4 cloves garlic — finely chopped
  • 28 oz (840g) canned tomatoes — chopped
  • ½ cup red wine
  • ½ teaspoon dried rosemary
  • ½ teaspoon dried red chili flakes
  • 1½ teaspoons salt
  • ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • ½ teaspoon sugar
  • 4 red bell peppers — deseeded and quartered

HEAT the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat and cook the onions for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the garlic and cook for another 5 minutes, stirring regularly. ADD the tomatoes, wine, rosemary, chili flakes, salt, pepper and sugar and bring to the boil. COVER, reduce the heat to medium and cook for 20 minutes. WHILE the sauce simmers, place the peppers (skin side up) under a hot broiler (griller) until the skin blackens all over, about 10 minutes. REMOVE and cover the charred peppers with a clean dishcloth or plastic wrap for 5 minutes to allow the steam to loosen the skins from the pepper flesh. PEEL off the blackened skin from the peppers and roughly cut the flesh into pieces then add to the sauce. PLACE the sauce into a food processor or blender and process until smooth.

Grilled fish with robust red sauce and couscous salad

Serves 2

  • 4 tablespoons lemon juice
  • 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 2 cloves garlic — minced
  • 2 x 6 oz (180g) firm white fish fillets
  • 1 cup couscous
  • 2 small zucchini — quartered lengthways and very thinly sliced into quarters
  • 1¼ cups boiling chicken or vegetable stock
  • 1 scallion (green part only) — thinly sliced on diagonal
  • 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh parsley
  • 1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh mint
  • 2 oz (60g) crumbled feta
  • ½ portion of the Robust Red Sauce recipe — heated

MIX together the lemon juice, olive oil, salt, pepper and garlic in a bowl. POUR half the lemon/oil mixture over the fish fillets and marinate, covered, in the fridge for 1 hour. COMBINE the couscous and zucchini in a bowl, pour over the boiling stock, cover and allow to steam for 5 minutes. FLUFF the couscous with a fork and toss with the scallion, parsley and mint. DRIZZLE over the remaining lemon/oil mixture and the crumbled feta and toss well to combine. SET the couscous salad aside while the fish continues to marinate. HEAT a cast iron grill pan over a high heat until very hot. COOK the fish fillets in the pan for around 3 minutes each side until just cooked. SERVE each fillet on a bed of the couscous salad and spoon the heated robust red sauce over the top.

Variations: Grill chicken breast fillets instead of fish. Serve any leftover couscous salad tossed with strips of smoked salmon and cubed avocado (drizzled with lemon juice to prevent browning).

Rigatoni with robust red sauce, tuna and broccoli

Serves 2

  • 8 oz (240g) dried rigatoni pasta
  • 2 cups broccoli florets
  • ½ portion of the Robust Red Sauce recipe — heated
  • 6 oz (180g) canned tuna in olive oil — drained and broken into chunks
  • Shaved or grated Parmesan cheese to serve

COOK the pasta in a large pot of salted boiling water, adding the broccoli to the pot for the final 5 minutes of cooking. DRAIN the cooked pasta and broccoli, put the sauce in the bottom of the pot and top with the hot pasta, broccoli and tuna chunks. TOSS together gently to combine well and heat through. SERVE the pasta with a little shaved or grated Parmesan on top.

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Thai Green Curry with Shrimp & Vegetables

There’s something very satisfying about being able to whip up a restaurant-quality Thai curry at home. The key is getting the right balance of saltiness, sweetness, sourness, and heat. To achieve this balance we typically use a combination of ingredients including sugar (palm sugar is traditional, but we usually use brown sugar for convenience), lemon or lime juice, fish sauce, and Thai curry paste (which is made from fresh chili and various spices) .

You can make your own curry paste from scratch, but years ago my sister-in-law Vivian, who’s Chinese-Malaysian, introduced me to a range of authentic pre-made curry pastes that I’ve used in my cooking ever since. In fact it was her chicken curry — which was made using red curry paste — that got me hooked on Asian food in the first place.

So if you’ve got the time and inclination to make your own curry paste, go for it. But the results you’ll get from a good quality pre-made curry paste can be almost as good — with a lot less effort. But here’s a tip; when you’re buying pre-made Thai curry paste, check to make sure it’s made in Thailand. If it is, there’s a very good chance it will be made with authentic ingredients. Our absolute favorite brand is Mae Ploy.

For this curry, we used green curry paste (which is green simply because the main ingredient is green chili), and three of our favorite green vegetables: peas, zucchini and green beans. Fresh garlic, onion and cilantro add extra depth of flavor, and the succulent shrimp not only complement the taste of this curry, they also add a wonderful color contrast.

Thai Green Curry with Shrimp & Vegetables

Serves 2

2 tablespoons peanut or canola oil
1 onion - finely chopped
3 teaspoons Thai green curry paste
2 cloves garlic - finely chopped
1 cup coconut milk
1 cup chicken stock
2 tablespoons fish sauce
1 tablespoon brown sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 zucchini - sliced into ½ inch rounds
16 green beans - halved
1 cup jasmine rice
1/3 cup frozen green peas - thawed
20 uncooked shrimp - peeled and deveined
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh cilantro (fresh coriander), and extra for garnish

HEAT the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat and cook the onion, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes. ADD the curry paste and garlic and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. ADD the coconut milk, chicken stock, fish sauce, sugar, and salt, and bring to a boil. ADD the zucchini and green beans, reduce the heat to medium, and simmer uncovered for 12 minutes. WHILE the curry simmers, bring 1 ½ cups of water to a boil in a saucepan. STIR in the rice, and keep stirring until the water returns to a boil. COVER the pot with a tight-fitting lid, reduce the heat to very low, and simmer gently for 15 minutes. ADD the peas and shrimp to the curry and simmer, uncovered, for another 4 minutes, then stir in the lemon juice and cilantro. GARNISH with the reserved cilantro and serve with the jasmine rice.

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An Uncomplicated Curry

This recipe shows that you don’t have to have every spice under the sun to cook a good Indian curry. Nor do you need to be a connoisseur of Indian cuisine. Contrary to popular belief, making an authentic curry is actually pretty easy, especially if you keep the ingredients simple and use a few shortcuts.

For instance, I adore using freshly ground spices but don’t always have them on hand, so I keep a basic stock of ground spices at the ready. For this curry, apart from essentials like cumin, coriander and chili, I used the classic Indian spice mix garam masala, a flavorful blend of aromatic spices which added a warmness and slight sweetness to the dish.

In addition to the spices, I simply added canned tomatoes and coconut milk, as well as spinach, onion and garlic bought at a nearby farmer’s produce stall, plus a couple of fresh fish fillets procured from our local fishmonger, and a lemon from our own tree. Regional and seasonal food at its best!

Fish, Spinach and Tomato Curry

Serves 2

  • 2 tablespoons canola or peanut oil
  • 1 onion - finely chopped
  • 2 cloves garlic - finely chopped
  • 2 teaspoons ground cumin
  • 1 teaspoon ground coriander
  • 1/2 teaspoon chili powder
  • 1 cup chopped canned tomatoes
  • 1 cup coconut milk
  • 1 teaspoon garam masala
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 1 cup basmati rice
  • 2 cups washed, drained and roughly chopped fresh spinach
  • 2 x 6 oz (180g) firm white fish fillets (such as snapper, cod or haddock)
  • 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

HEAT the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat and cook the onion, stirring occasionally, until golden, about 8 minutes. ADD the garlic and cook for 2 minutes, then add the cumin, coriander and chili and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. ADD the tomatoes, coconut milk, garam masala and salt and bring to a boil. REDUCE the heat to medium and simmer, uncovered, for 10 minutes. WHILE the curry simmers, bring 1 1/2 cups of water to a boil in a saucepan. STIR in the rice and keep stirring until the water returns to a boil. COVER the pot with a tight-fitting lid, reduce the heat to very low, and simmer the rice gently for 15 minutes. ADD the spinach to the curry and cook, covered, for 4 minutes, then add the fish and spoon the sauce over the fillets. COVER with a lid, and simmer for another 7 minutes. STIR in the lemon juice and serve on a bed of the rice.

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Roasted Ratatouille

When it comes to the classic Provençal vegetable dish ratatouille, I prefer it roasted not stirred. What I mean is I’d rather eat ratatouille that’s been cooked in the oven where the vegetables are left alone to slowly roast in their own juices, than ratatouille that’s been made on the stove-top where the vegetables are often overcooked and stirred to a mush.

Until quite recently I’d only ever made ratatouille on the stove-top. The results had always been very palatable, but not what I would describe as overwhelmingly good. I’d always put this down to the fact that I wasn’t cooking each vegetable separately, a method that some recipes recommend to preserve the integrity of each vegetable. But I’d never had the time or inclination to test that theory.

Being a big fan of oven-roasted dishes, and armed with a glut of eggplants, tomatoes, zucchinis, peppers and onions, I was inspired to create this roasted ratatouille. Unhampered by excessive stirring, the vegetables develop a deliciously sweet roasted flavor and wonderful texture that rise above any stove-top ratatouille I’ve ever tasted.

Since this roasted ratatouille revelation, it’s become one of my favorite ’set and forget’ oven-baked dishes and has revolutionized my culinary repertoire with its sheer versatility. Just as good hot, warm or cold, the ratatouille can be prepared ahead and kept covered in the fridge until you’re ready to roast. And once cooked, any leftovers (unlikely) taste even better over the next day or two.

To date I’ve served roasted ratatouille: tossed with pasta and white beans; nestled in a baguette with brie (heaven!); served on the side of grilled tuna; mixed with couscous and chickpeas; used as a pizza topping with anchovies and olives; and stirred through a shrimp risotto.

I’m sure there are dozens of other ways you could use this ratatouille, and if you can think of any I’d love to hear your ideas in the comments.

Bon appétit!

Roasted Ratatouille

Serves 4 as a side dish

  • 14 oz (420g) canned tomatoes — chopped
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 3/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 1/2 teaspoon caster sugar
  • 2 cloves garlic — minced
  • 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh parsley
  • 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
  • 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 red onion — thinly sliced and separated into rings
  • 2 red peppers — cut into strips
  • 1 green pepper — cut into strips
  • 2 zucchini (courgette) — cut into half-inch rounds
  • 1/2 eggplant (aubergine) — cut into 1-inch cubes

PREHEAT oven to 350F/180C. MIX together the canned tomatoes, garlic, salt, pepper, sugar, parsley and thyme until combined. OIL a baking dish with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. START by layering a quarter of the sliced onion in the bottom of the baking dish then top with a quarter each of red and green peppers, zucchini and eggplant. SPOON a quarter of the tomato mixture and 1 tablespoon of olive oil over each layer. REPEAT the process to make 4 layers. COVER and bake for 1 hour, then uncover and bake for a further 15 minutes.

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Fun with Fungi

There are certain foods that I detested eating as a child, but now thoroughly enjoy as an adult. Anchovies and olives are two foods that spring to mind — so do mushrooms. But although my appreciation for mushrooms might have been somewhat belated, I’ve been making up for my missed mushroom years and I’m now fascinated with fungi!

What enamors me most about mushrooms is their wonderful earthy flavor, delightful ‘meaty’ texture, and extraordinary versatility. I’m also enchanted by the culinary contradiction that mushrooms are such a prized food in so many cultures, yet they’re not plants (in the sense that they don’t need the sun to survive and grow), they’re actually organisms that live in or on other organisms — in other words, parasites.

Mushrooms have been revered by Mediterranean home cooks for centuries. Italians are well known for their fondness of fungi, and hunting for wild mushrooms is still a common practice in many parts of Italy. To bring out the best in fresh mushrooms, such as porcini or cremini, Italians often pair them with simple ingredients like extra virgin olive oil, garlic, parsley, sea salt and freshly ground black pepper — demonstrating, as with most things in life, that simple is best. Mushrooms are also used to enhance the flavor of many classic Italian dishes including pastas and risottos, and they make the perfect topping for pizza and bruschetta.

Spaniards too, have discovered the magic of mushrooms, and they’re enjoyed in dishes ranging from tapas (Champiñones al ajillo, or garlic mushrooms, is a popular tapas dish) to hearty stews and rice dishes.

The French make memorable meals from mushrooms teamed with eggs including mushroom-filled omelets, crepes and quiches, and eat them fresh in salads, cooked in soups and casseroles, or stuffed and baked.

Asian cooks have their own repertoire of mushroom specialties. Fresh and dried mushrooms such as shiitake, enoki and oyster are used whole or sliced in stir-fries, braises, curries and noodle dishes. They’re also enjoyed in soups such as Tom Yam Hed (Thai spicy sour Mushroom soup), and make a great addition to Laksa (Malaysian noodle soup). Sliced mushrooms are also a common addition to the delicate clear soups of Japan, and they’re often added to miso soup for flavor and texture.

Miso soup with mushrooms is a definite favorite in our household too. Sometimes we might just scatter some thinly sliced fresh mushrooms into a bowl of miso soup. Other times we might turn the miso soup into a full meal — such as in the recipe below — by adding soba noodles, grated fresh ginger, bite-size vegetable pieces, and mushrooms. We typically use dried mushrooms (reconstituted in hot water) for this noodle broth, because they have a firmer texture and more full-bodied flavor than fresh mushrooms. But thickly sliced fresh mushrooms (shiitake or button) still work really well.

Mushroom Miso Broth with Soba Noodles

Serves 2

  • 7 dried shiitake mushrooms (available at Asian grocery stores)
  • 5 1/2 cups dashi stock
  • 1 carrot - peeled and sliced thinly on diagonal
  • 1 scallion (spring onion) - sliced on diagonal
  • 1/2 small eggplant (aubergine) - cut into 1/2-inch cubes
  • 1 cup roughly chopped bok choy
  • 1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger
  • 3 1/2 oz (100g) dried soba noodles
  • 1 tablespoon Japanese soy sauce
  • 1 tablespoon miso

SOAK the mushrooms in boiling water while you prepare the ingredients. PLACE the stock in a large saucepan and bring to a boil. ADD the carrot, ginger and soy sauce, and simmer for 2 minutes. ADD the scallion, eggplant, bok choy and noodles and simmer for 3 minutes. DRAIN the reconstituted mushrooms, squeeze the excess moisture from them, slice, and add to the broth. ADD the miso and stir to dissolve without bringing to the boil. SERVE in bowls.

Variation: Silken tofu, cut into small cubes, makes a great addition to this soup.

If this post has put you in the mood for mushrooms, here are some more mushroom recipes (and recipes that include mushrooms as a prominent ingredient) from my website:

Miso Soup with Tofu and Mushroom
Beef and Mushroom Lasagna
Ham, Mushroom and Tomato Pizza
Mushroom, Bacon and Walnut risotto
Champiñones al ajillo
Mushroom Bruschetta
Singapore Noodles
Marinated Tofu and Vegetable Stir-Fry

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